The BOSS SS26 show was a study in "Paradox." Here is why your next suit should look a little "wrong."
Last week, I found myself in an old industrial foundry on the outskirts of Milan (Fonderia Macchi), staring at a mirrored runway that seemed to stretch into infinity. The theme of the BOSS show was “The Paradox”—a clash between strict order and total chaos.
While the fast-fashion giants will likely just copy the colors, the real shift happening in menswear is about texture and “disordered” styling. Here are the three trends I saw from the front row that you can start wearing now.
1. The “Liquid” Leather Trench
We usually think of leather as rigid or biker-tough. But at Fonderia Macchi, the standout pieces were “glossy” leather car coats and trenches that moved like silk. They looked wet, fluid, and almost fragile.
The Takeaway: Stop looking for stiff leather jackets. Look for “shirt-weight” leather or high-gloss coated cottons that drape. It’s a texture that instantly makes a simple outfit look expensive and futuristic.
2. “Disordered” Tailoring
BOSS is known for the perfect suit, but this season, they messed it up on purpose. I saw blazers with buttons in the “wrong” places, pockets appearing where they shouldn’t be, and necklines that draped oddly. It was “Office Core” having a breakdown.
The Takeaway: Perfection is out. Look for pieces with asymmetry—a shirt with a crooked placket, or trousers with a double pleat that feels slightly too voluminous. If it looks a little “off,” it’s on trend.
3. The “Oxidized” Palette
There was surprisingly little true, flat black on the runway. Instead, the “dark” palette was dominated by colors that looked like they had been left out in the elements: deep espresso, rusted burgundy, and a navy so dark it looked like ink. It created a richness and depth that standard black just doesn’t have.
The Takeaway: This winter, bench your standard black coat. Go for a deep brown or a blackened burgundy. In low light, it looks like black, but in the sun, it reveals a complex, expensive-looking texture. It absorbs light differently and adds a layer of warmth to your silhouette that feels very “Milan 2026.”
Perfection is Boring
If there is one thing to take away from the Fonderia Macchi show, it is this: the era of the “armored” corporate man is over.
For decades, we wore suits to look invincible. But the SS26 collection suggests that there is more power in vulnerability. The “liquid” fabrics, the disordered tailoring, the rusted colors—they all suggest a man who is comfortable enough to let his guard down.
You don’t need to go out and buy a €3,000 trench coat to get this look. You just need to change your mindset. Stop ironing your shirts until they are stiff. Stop worrying if your trousers break perfectly at the shoe. Embracing a little bit of “decay” might just be the freshest thing you can do for your wardrobe this year.